Silver and gold

There are two interesting pavillions in Kyoto: Kinkakuji (the Golden Pavillion) and Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavillion), both on opposite sides of the city. Kinkakuji is a very ostentatious 1955 replica of the 1397 original, which was apparently burned down by an angry monk in 1950. The arsonist apparently "hated anything beautiful." So many lovely things in Kyoto were ruined by jealous, angry, or violent monks, according to my guidebook. People were afraid of the monks who lived in the mountains and hills surrounding Kyoto for all of their craziness: kind of contradicts the idea that we have of monks being so peaceful and Zen-like, eh?

Kinkakuji was nice, but kind of gimmicky, with tons of schlocky souveniers and model golden pavillions sold alongside tons of overpriced okashi (sweets) and other useless items. It was a very pretty place, but marred by an abundance of tourists and mindless consumerism.

























The trail leading to Ginkakuji is called the Philosopher's Path, which is lined with hundreds of sakura trees and follows a pretty little canal as well. Dozens of little teahouses, craft shops, and fabric stores can be found along the Walk of Philosophy. Such a lovely stroll that was unfortunately marred by a freak rainstorm on our first day in Kyoto. We ducked into a shop for a matcha (green tea) float and watched the rain patter on the wooden porch. Fortunately, we returned a couple of days later in order to finish our journey to the Silver Pavillion.


























Ginkakuji actually isn't silver, but its gardens of tiny pebbles do give off a silver hue in the moonlight apparently. While they intended to cover Ginkakuji in silver leaf (as was done to Kinkakuji in gold), they never got around of it, so while the actual temple isn't all that impressive, the peaceful and mossy grounds of Ginkakuji are gorgeous, particularly when enveloped in filtered sunlight and viewed from a short climb in the hills. I have to say, I loved this place for its serenity and simple, understated beauty and deference to nature.
























And yes, some moss is definitely more important than others... We visited Ginkakuji's VIP lounge, filled with different varieties of the moss that covers the grounds of the pavillion, so that even in winter, one will be able to catch a glimpse of the verdant green flora. I am so lucky to visit Kyoto during sakura season, but I couldn't help but be wistful, and hope someday to return to Kyoto during my favorite season -- autumn -- and see the fiery Japanese maples alongside the lush moss, sculpted tree bark and gorgeous architecture. Marvelous!

Oh, how I loved Kyoto! There was a fantastic surprise around every corner, be it a cheap little gift shop with gorgeous wares, a friendly stranger ready and willing to compliment my strained attempts at Japanese, free samples of delicious crepes and cinnamon cookies, a charming apartment, a secluded temple ... Kyoto is everything that you dream that Japan will be like -- and more! Those who know me will know that I don't give such bountiful praise lightly, so please take that for what it's worth. More to come.