Indoor fishing

All I know is that I think this concept would be a huge hit in the States and I probably shouldn't publicize it here lest someone steal my vision for the greatest restaurant ever, but here goes. So there's a restaurant, right, and in the middle of the restaurant is a boat shaped seating area. There are also bridges throughout the eatery. Why? Because the boat and the restaurant is surrounded by water; in essence, a giant fish tank with at least a hundred fish living mildly content lives for about a few hours. Because then, the diners will hook a bit of shrimp on a simple bamboo pole and catch them. In theory you place the flapping fish in a net and a waiter takes it away. When it returns, it is prepared as you like it: as sashimi, grilled, fried, broiled. You name it.

So it was an awesome way to spend my last night in Tokyo. I caught a fish, attempted to hold it up in order to get a photo with the fish; it escaped much to the chagrin of the waitstaff. And then Jeremy caught it again and we were able to catch the same fish anew. It was exceedingly delicious, broiled in a casing of rock salt, served alongside other izakaya type specialties. Can you beat that idea? Nah, didn't think so.

It was Mother's Day when we went, so many families were treating their moms to a night of no cooking. The atmosphere was jovial and festive, full of bottles of sake and pints of Kirin. Let me just say for the record, that I did not participate in a "catch and release program," despite the libelous statements of certain others.




Those wanting to experience the fishing restaurant themselves (Zauo, several locations) feel free to do so, but do not import this idea to the States on penalty of my fury. Thank you.

Racist chocolate

Yes, young people do love hip hop culture in Japan, but that doesn't mean they can't enjoy a little racist chocolate while they're at it, right? This Mexican chocolate bar (sold at a toy store in Tokyo) features milk chocolate covered peanuts ("conguitos", if you will) enveloped in a bar of white chocolate. Unable to assimilate, the conguitos maintain their dark color even in the mass of whiteness. To be fair, most Japanese are not aware of the minstrel shows complete with blackface performers with the pitch black skin and the exaggerated lips that later turned into the all-out offensive ads for watermelon and pancake syrup.

Japanese obviously don't understand the history behind blackface (at least I hope not), but that doesn't mean they're immune from controversy. One of the once wildly popular Pokémon characters was clad in blackface until they were forced to change it to "purpleface" in response to criticism from some African Americans. Jynx, complete with big lips and huge boobies, seduces with a special hip sway. Her very special Pokémon episode does not air in the U.S. or U.K. and she has been cut out of some other episodes airing in English speaking countries. Poor Jynx.

Asakusa

The closest you're going to get to what first-timers think they'll find in Tokyo is Asakusa, the closest thing to old Edo, with its quaint shops and buildings, rickshaws, and shopping streets. I saved it for my last few days in Tokyo because I figured I might need a respite from the neon of Shibuya and Shinjuku or the wonderfully crisp pages of a book on international arbitration. Of course, when I finally did visit Asakusa, I was not disappointed. Along with visiting the temples, we feasted on one of my favorite Japanese foods, anmitsu, which is a delicious dessert of agar jelly, fruit, azuki beans, mochi, and sweet black syrup. Chocolate-loving Americans are often critical of Japanese desserts (though the puddings are wonderful), but anmitsu is a delight, trust me.

Asakusa's highlight is Sensoji (Asakusa Kannon), Tokyo's oldest and most famous temple. While it is packed with tourists, it is still quite a sight to behold, especially coupled with some browsing in the stationery and kimono shops and some tasty treats from the street vendors.

The Hozomon main gate to Asakusa Kannon

Old Tokyo buildings in Asakusa

Another view of Asakusa Kannon

Vendors in Asakusa sell candy apples, candy grapes, candy strawberries...
They tend to give you a perfectly pink smile, like so.

One of the packed shopping streets

A pagoda at the complex and the famous lantern at the Kaminarimon, the outer gate to Sensoji

Tsukiji

The best place to be at 5 a.m. on a Saturday morning? Well, besides being in bed, it's gotta be Tsukiji fish market, the busiest place in Tokyo that early in the morning. Every day more than 2,000 tons of fish product pass through Tsukiji. Additionally, tons of Tokyo natives and tourists brave the crowds, the zipping of carts, and the sight of huge bloody fish being carved up right in front of you just to get the freshest seafood around. I was sad to miss the much ballyhooed tuna auction that's held at 5 a.m. but just found out that it is closed to tourists because they kept annoying the hell out of the people who do business there. Why are Americans and Europeans so stupid sometimes?

Tsukiji, despite the madness, is definitely a great place to visit, especially when you watch a vendor slice a piece of tuna flesh perfectly and hand it to you. Instantly delicious sashimi. Lots of restaurants are open around the market as well, including some fabulous sushi restaurants and authentic seafood ramen stands. On this visit, Emi, Yvonne, and I enjoyed some maguro sushi, hot tea, and clam stew, which was perfectly sweet and delicious. Not for the fainthearted, (there's definitely a LOT of blood and guts on display) but a must-see for any visitor to Tokyo.

Emi looks a little shell-shocked here from all the craziness, but still much better off than that tuna!

And here's a photo of the now off-limits tuna auction

[Credit time: Fishies up top from here; tuna auction from National Geographic by James L. Stanfield]

Greek food ... in Japan?

My grandma has a Irish soda bread frozen for me when I get back so that we can celebrate St. Patrick's Day and a pizzagaina (a very, very healthy Italian quiche), so I'm looking forward to that, but I didn't have to wait to go home to have my Greek Easter, or Πάσχα (Pascha). The Orthodox Πάσχα is celebrated at a different time from the other Christian sects because it follows the Julian calendar instead of the Gregorian one, in order to ensure that Easter falls after Passover, which is when Jesus celebrated Holy Week.

So, yes, indeed, I celebrated Πάσχα in grand style today, at a dinner with Jeremy, Jeremy's brother Jon and two of Jon's friends. I was skeptical at first, but the food was really good! We went to a place called Spyro's in Harajuku and ordered tons of Greek food, including pastichio (a lasagna-type dish with ziti, ground lamb, and cream and tomato sauces), moussaka (eggplant with beef and tomato sauce), souvlaki (grilled lamb skewers), tzatsiki (garlicky yogurt) sauce, saganaki (grilled Cypriot cheese) and of course, lots and lots of feta and olives! Topped off with γιαούρτι και μέλι (yogurt and thick Greek honey). Delish! It actually rivaled a lot of the Greek restaurants I have been to in the U.S.

But the kicker was the bottle of ouzo that I found. Check out the name of the bottler! Nice! Apparently my heretofore unknown cousin Issidoros is a "persistent perfectionist" who bottles only ouzo with a "strong and fragrant spirit." Of course, all we Arvanitises share the same attributes along with a healthy share of procrastinating when it comes time for finals.

I have loved just about everything I have encountered of Japanese culture, from tatami mats to Shinto shrines, but it's nice to have days like these to remind me where I come from and the Irish, Italian and Greek traditions that my family incorporates into everyday American life.

Incidentally, My favorite part of going to Easter Mass as a child was when the priest read the Paschal greetings in different languages. I guess it's fitting that I'm so interested in international affairs even today! Χριστός ανέστη! Αληθώς ανέστη!

Maid cafes get recognized

See, even made Reuters!

"Maid in Japan"

By the way, while the article says that she is serving coffee to customers, she is clearly giving him some melon soda, which is highly delicious.

Fave quote: Yasunori Tomita, a 32-year-old salesman and first-time customer, said, “I don’t have a girlfriend at the moment so getting pampered by maids will have to suffice for now.”

[Photo credit: Toru Hanai, Reuters]